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Planning Your Camino, Part 3 - Where to Sleep

There is a vast range in accommodations on the Camino de Santiago. In this post I will explain some of the bed options. Yes, bed. On the Camino you usually get a bed rather than a room, but as you see, there are many options.


Planning Your Camino
Planning Your Camino - Where to Stay

 

Planning Your Camino - Choose your Style


By style, I mean 'on the cheap' or 'luxury pilgrimage' - or something in between. I am not sure if you can actually use luxury and pilgrimage together, but you can walk as a pilgrim and stay in luxury accommodations. They aren't available everywhere though, so be aware.


Personally, I like to mix it up. On my most recent trek, I stayed one night in a luxury Parador hotel and the next in a very basic albergue. I think I have used almost all of the following choices.


Albergues


These are a sort of hostel made specifically for pilgrims. They tend to be the most economical lodgings and sometimes have kitchens where you can cook your own food (more cost savings). Usually you have to provide your own towels and sleeping bag. This is where you will encounter bunkbeds, snoring (bring earplugs), and sometimes a lot of fun! You MUST have a pilgrim credencial in order to stay in an albergue.

Planning Your Camino
Typical pilgrim dormitorio

Within this category there are:


  1. Parochial or Donativo (by donation) - These albergues are operated by religious institutions such as monasteries, convents, or local churches. While they are not for-profit, they do have costs associated with running the hostel. When you decide how much to donate, consider what service you are receiving (bed, washing facility, maybe food) and donate accordingly. If you can afford it, donate a bit extra to help subsidize those who cannot pay. I volunteered at Refugio Gaucelmo, a donativo albergue on the Camino Frances. These albergues are known for providing unique pilgrim experiences, such as afternoon tea, communal meals, special church services, and more.


  2. Municipal or Xunta - Operated by local or regional authorities, these are often the most basic and most economical beds, ranging from €5-15 per night. There might be a kitchen (but perhaps without pans, utensils, or plates). They are conveniently located along the major pilgrim routes.


  3. Private - As these are privately owned, they are often a bit more expensive, but may have some additional features/benefits. I stayed at one where my first load of laundry (and my first cerveza) were included in the price. Here you might find single beds, as opposed bunkbeds, swimming pools, attached restaurants or bars, or maybe a laundry service.


Planning Your Camino
Private Albergue

Pensión, Casa Rural, Hostal, Air BnB


If you are looking for more privacy, these are good options. Not quite hotels, but with private rooms - though sometimes the washroom is down the hall and share by other guests.


Here you usually are provided with bedding and towels, sometimes shampoo and soap. There could be a kitchen. Of course, more amenities means a higher price tag, but often these spaces are quite reasonable, especially if there are two people sharing.


Hotels


Just like at home, there is a wide range of hotels in Spain. You won't find them in small villages, though, so don't expect to stay in a hotel every night. Unless you want to taxi back and forth to your starting/ending point for the day.


There is a chain of posh hotels in Spain, the Paradores. They are often historic buildings such as monasteries or castles that have been converted into 5 Star hotels/resorts. Very unique, comfortable, and also expensive. Quite reasonable for the level of luxury, and you can get a pilgrim discount. Last year I stayed at the Parador in Monforte de Lemos and paid €$150, which included a buffet breakfast. Worth the treat! But not typical pilgrim accommodation.


How to Find Your Bed

Planning Your Camino
Example from Gronze.com - I recommend Refugio Gaucelmo, of course!

Many of the Camino guidebooks, apps, and planning sites have lists and even links to accommodations. Often this includes amenities, cost, reviews, and sometimes a link to book your bed. You can also learn about services in the towns, distances, trail description, and more.


For planning purposes, I like to use Gronze.com or WisePilgim.


Do You Need to Reserve?


Some albergues, such as municipals and donativos, do not take bookings. Others, such as private albergues and the other categories above, do accept reservations. You can call ahead, send a WhatsApp message, or possibly book using the Booking.com platform.


It is definitely possible to walk the Camino Frances without booking ahead. Walk until you feel like stopping, and see what's available. This works best if you finish walking by early afternoon and if you aren't picky. In this case, try the donativos and municipals first, as those aren't bookable.


If you want to be guaranteed a bed at the end of the day, you can make arrangements one or two days ahead for more flexibility. I usually knew how far I would walk for the next day or two, but beyond that I might want to leave my options open.


There is one more option. There are a number of services that support your Camino by booking every accommodation in advance, arranging for pack transportation, and sometimes providing additional services such as an app or phone number for support. This is, of course, more expensive; as well as less flexible. However, some pilgrims really like the security of this level of support and are willing to pay the price.


My Advice


I am not going to tell you how you should walk your Camino or where you should sleep. But here are some things to consider (remember your style).


  1. If you want to meet pilgrims and experience the communal meals and special pilgrim experiences, I would suggest staying at albergues most of the time.


  2. If you want privacy, consider the hostals and hotels, according to your budget. You can still meet pilgrims and experience pilgrim life (restaurants, churches, and meeting pilgrims while walking).


  3. If you are looking to save money, go with the albergues. But even if you have plenty of money, I encourage you to approach the pilgrimage with a humble heart. Remember that you can mix it up and treat yourself with a private room now and then (unless you are locked in with bookings before you leave home).


Buen Camino!

Next time: food!!




1 Comment


Mark West
Mark West
6 days ago

My favorite private auberge- augerge Leo. I'm writing a book (who isnt?)- heres a little bit of the story behind Auberge Leo-

Peter was tending the small bar at Auberge Leo. He poured me a glass of wine and, like many people on the Camino, soon found himself telling a story.

He was from Ireland and had been walking the Camino a few years earlier when he stopped at Albergue Leo. At the time, Maria and her family were in the middle of fixing the place up, slowly restoring the old stone building. Peter stayed on for a few days to help out- one of those small Camino detours that seems harmless enough at the time.

Somewhere between the…

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